Manufacturing Technologies for Fashion, Art and Design
Alan Maughan is a British designer, who studied fashion at Epsom School of Art where his final collection was featured in i-D magazine. He then joined PAUL SMITH where he learnt the basics of design, working in the pattern room and design office, designing the Jeans collection and working on the Japanese men’s collection. He then moved to Milan where he worked in the VERSACE design studio, responsible for the Sport, Jeans and children's wear lines, gaining a deep knowledge and love of Italian style and quality. In 2012 he decided to launch his label BARBARA ALAN in collaboration with Barbara Amelii, a partnership bringing together the best of London design and Italian quality. His capsule collection for MODA FUTURIBILE is “Study of Shape”: nothing is quite what it seems. Inspired by geometric shapes mixed with and contrasted by traditional forms, to give knit pieces with a very modernist design aesthetic. Technique and construction is part of my design philosophy and in everything I do. Strong straight lines and squares are transformed and reinvented using unconventional modern construction techniques to add the unexpected to each garment. Different tones of black, in varied textured yarns mixed with transparence and embellishments to give dimension and texture. Alan Maughan is collaborating with Bond Factory manufacturing, Clouds and Erika knitting companies, BE.MI.VA. and Filpucci yarns companies.
Maria Schmiedt is a young Italian knitwear designer, Florence based. Maria graduated in 2012 from the Fashion Institute of Technology in NY with a BFA in International Fashion Design (Knitwear Specialization) and a minor in Art History. Since she was little she experimented on discovering new textures and color combinations, working with different materials and art supplies. Eight years ago Maria started working with yarns, mixing different compositions to create new effects both with her machines and by hand. Her curiosity in finding inspiration in the world around, and in particular nature, facilitates her to create new designs. She’s now working on a collection of knitted ties and bowties and on a very colorful children’s wear project. Her capsule collection for MODA FUTURIBILE is “ultima spiaggia”: my project “ultima spiaggia” is a statement against marine pollution. The leading inspiration for this project raises from a personal awareness regarding endangered animals and ecosystems, in particular the effects of pollution on the marine flora and fauna. One of the looks contains recycled plastic bags that are trapped in the knit, reflecting the trash that gets caught on the beaches and contaminates the oceans. My goal in the future is to actively participate by rising awareness on these topics through fashion. Maria is collaborating with Bond Factory, Mely’s knitting company, BE.MI.VA., Filpucci e Millefili yarns company.
With a background in business studies Laura Theiss is a Lithuanian-born knitwear designer. After graduating from Central St Martins, in London, Theiss developed a bold signature style, recreating in a modern key traditional crochet and knitting stitches, designing fantastically original pieces for her own label and international clients, bringing knitwear into the future. Her silhouettes and shapes are indeed directly linked with sci-fi stories of brave amazons living in a galaxy far away. Yet fantasy combines in Theiss' designs with technique: since founding her label in 2010, the designer produced acclaimed collections shown in London and Paris while constantly researching the world of yarns and stitches, coming up with three-dimensional patterns, highly contrasting textures, striking volumes, and unusual colour palettes.
Theiss currently produces her own collections and collaborates on various projects. She divides herself between the UK and Germany where she recently designed costumes for two ballet performances by famous Irish choreographer Marguerite Donlon - 'Wings' and 'Shadow'. Her capsule collection for MODA FUTURIBILE is “Hacking Traditions”: the idea is to use thermowelding and reinterpreting my crocheted pieces with this technique. Sort of taking crocheting into the future. Manipulating crochet pattern and machine knit some parts in combination with cut outs, print and still mixing with hand crochet bits. The inspiration for AW 16/17 comes from the film “Ex machine”, which is about a man who tests a cyborg woman, and the cyborg woman proves to be more clever and subtle than its creator and of the man testing her.
Laura is collaborating with Bond Factory manufacturing, Benny B knitting company, Millefili and Filpucci yarns company.
Bond Factory www.dyloan.com
Benny B www.studioarchivio.com
Filati BE.MI.VA. www.bemiva.it
Maglificio Erika www.maglificioerika.com
From July 1st to 3rd Pitti Immagine Filati 77 features the third edition of MODA FUTURIBILE project, which focuses on the blend between craftsmanship and technology, as a fundamental aspect of future fashion. The project, curated by Dyloan Studio, sets out to enhance high-end design in the fashion system through the development of a series of products, expression of the know-hows and design synergies created between companies and designers.
The focus on craftsmanship and technology becomes both a motivation and a link between the creativity of three designers and the experience of the Italian manufacturing excellence, a mutual exchange of information that is transformed into an opportunity for growth and collaboration.
Pitti Immagine Filati 77 | 1 – 3 July 2015
Central pavilion – Lower floor – Stand Q/23